Jancis Robinson

Really nutty nose – smells like blitzed up sunflower seeds. A rather moreish ‘whole-grain muesli’ flavour profile. Jeroboams’ wine director Peter Mitchell says it has the classic lime and grassiness of a Sem/Sav blend, and yes, there’s lime (tasting as if it’d been cut and scorched for a second on the barbecue), and a handful of fresh-cut lawn. But there’s more to it than that. Good substance, the acidity firm but restrained. Kiwi fruit and then deliciously ripe gooseberries. Fennel tops, touch of green pepper, Bramley apple. A bit like the Redde Pouilly-Fumé, this runs the gauntlet of crisp acidity and richness, maintaining pinpoint parity all the way. Excellent food wine. I’d love to try this with a horiatiki salad, or gravlax with sour cream on rye toast, or cold roast pork packed into a panini with a generous slather of tarragon mayo and crunchy mandolined fennel bulb. You could so easily, and happily, drink this now but it will also develop very nicely.

17 Points

By Tamlyn Currin / August 2021